Archive for the ‘General’ Category

Fixed.org.au IS ALIVE!

Sunday, February 10th, 2008

While the blog doesn’t get much attention, we are still alive and kicking. All the action is happening in the forums!

Nick

Bespoke Chainrings

Friday, November 16th, 2007

Cycle Underground, a Sydney-based bicycle workshop and components manufacturer, has recently begun production of singlespeed/fixed chainrings, made to order and delivered Australia-wide. Their claim: High quality, true, strong, long-wearing and affordable chainrings for a large range of bcd and tooth counts – and all this from an Australian company? This sounded far too good to be true, so I ordered a few to try them out.

After a brief exchange with John from Cycle Underground, I settled a design to match my crankset, and ordered a few different sizes for use on the track. The end product was just fantastic!

Ring on the bike

The shape and anodising worked quite well with the cranks, and the fit was superbe. According to the CU website, the tooth profile is machined closer to the diameter of chain rollers, and there is less of a chamfer on the teeth edges. This results in a slightly "beefier" looking tooth (especially when combined with the 4mm plate option):

Teeth closeup

On my first few rides I noticed that the drivetrain was significantly quieter than with the Sugino 75 chainring that came with the bike. This initial quiet seemed to wear off a bit, but only while coasting. Under power there was less binding transferred through the cranks, and a quiet, smooth transmission. Chain tension is a breeze too since these rings are actually round! Just slap it on, tighten and bam – no tightspots. I’m really happy with the end result both functionally and aesthetically and can’t recommend them enough.

For now, they are available in 4 different designs, numbered 1 to 4:

Available designs

Maybe… "Messenger", "Hour Record", "Classic Track" and "Post Modern" (??). High quality: check. Affordable: check. Made to order: check. Locally manufactured: check. Good product by good people!

Please see the Cycle Underground Chainrings page for more information.

ndf 2007-11-16

Fixed Classifieds – Sell Stuff.

Saturday, February 3rd, 2007

I’ve just made a new addition to the site – Fixed.org.au classifieds. Register, login and browse to one of the three categories (Complete Bikes, Misc or Parts) and place an ad.

Australia’s first fixed gear classifieds site? I don’t know, but if you’re selling something fixed related, I guess this is a good place to start…

I hope it’s of use,

nick.

Fixed Gear Trackstands

Thursday, January 11th, 2007

Learn how to trackstand like a freak:

Or view all of Burdphils trackstand experiments here.

Why Skid Patches?

Monday, November 27th, 2006

A few weeks ago, on a regular Saturday ride we were talking crap as always and I said something along the lines of:

” blah blah f@#$ed blah coffee blah blah 17 tooth cog, which is great for skid patches.”

Des immediately stopped me with: “Why is a 17t good for skid patches?” My response was pretty much equivalent to “er – cos, um… 17 patches”. Naturally, he was not convinced, so I showed him. We flipped the bike, chose a reference and then started turning the cranks. Luckily, there were indeed 17 distinct places the wheel would rotate to, which for someone skidding with the same foot forward would result in 17 skid patches. Des then said something about having a 20t cog and therefore it being just as good, if not better, to which I replied something like “no, because like… gear ratio, something you know?”. But when he asked again for an explanation, the best I could do was a change of topic. We were out riding, and I felt pretty ashamed…

So why do you get skid patches? Why is it that some gears are better than others for skid patches? And why is it that you get a certain number for a given chainring/cog combo? Why is it that sometimes the number of patches is not simply the number of teeth on the rear cog? And how do you know ahead of time (ie. without flipping and turning) which combos are good and bad?

If you don’t really care about all the whys – you can just skip to the tables (note some people call them ‘charts’) published on Bike Forums and friends:

And choose a combo with a higher number of patches. But as good as those tables are, and as thoroughly distracting as the logical proofs are.. they really don’t explain why. Even Sheldon Brown’s glossary entry is less than satisfying on the why:

Simplify the gear ratio to the smallest equivalent whole number ratio. The denominator of the resulting fraction is the number of skid patches you will have on your rear tire.

Fraction? Denominator? Simplify? That’s all annoying maths isn’t it? Yes, and a somewhat distracting smokescreen. But why?

The following text is an attempt to answer in terms we all understand why it is that you get skid patches, and why the number is not always the same as the number of teeth on your cog. Where possible I’ve tried to eliminate mathematics, or rely on hidden assumptions. If it’s too simple please just ignore it and simplify your fractions. If I’m wrong, and that’s completely possible (just ask Blakey), please tell me and I’ll retract in a sec.

Disclaimer:

We all use cogs with more than 10 teeth. If we skid, it’s never precisely in the same crank position. Most of us will move the rear wheel every now and then to clean the chain, repair a flat or change gear. So: All this skid patch crap is irrelevant. However, it is good to know that it is possible to have a particularly bad combination, that over the course of a day might lead to a single worn out patch on a tyre. So please forget everything you know and read on…

Basics

On a fixed gear bicycle, and for the purpose of this (long-winded) explanation, the drivetrain consists of three major elements:

  1. Chainring
  2. Chain
  3. Cog

The cranks are fixed to the chainring, and for normal forward pedaling, they drive the rear wheel by rotating the chainring, which pulls on the chain. The chain advances, and pulls on a cog affixed to the rear wheel, hence turning the rear wheel.

Teeth on the chainring and cog slot into matching holes in the chain. Since it is not desirable (or practical for most purposes) for a chain to engage with a partial tooth, cogs and chainrings have a whole number of teeth. For example, 20, 21, 22, etc. Never half or partial counts like 34.6 or ten and a half. While this is a blindingly obvious statement to most people, it is important to remember, because it means that every full rotation of the driving cranks will advance the chain by exactly the number of teeth on the chainring.

If you were to mark the chainring at the top, cut the chain at that link and then rotate the crank until the mark was at the original position, the number of ‘teeth’ of chain that would have been advanced past the mark would be the same as the number of teeth on the chainring.

Let’s assume that when skidding you always have the same foot forward. This means that the chainring will always have done a complete revolution when the skid happens. So some whole multiple of that many ‘teeth’ of chain will have been pulled over the rear sprocket. For the purpose of this explanation, let’s assume you are (say) going down a very long hill and do a little skid on each pedal revolution, what happens at the rear sprocket?

The cog, like the chainring has a whole number of teeth. Again, this is blindingly obvious, BUT important because since the chainring is in the same place for each skid – it means that no matter what your gear ratio is, the rear wheel can only possibly ever be in as many positions as there are teeth on the cog. The chainring is in the same position, the chain is the same length, the cog has teeth that slot into the chain, so only one of those teeth can be the ‘topmost’.

Imagine a 5 tooth cog, for the same chain position, it can only ever be in 5 rotational positions, so there are only 5 possible wheel positions. This means only 5 possible places to skid, and for certain chainring sizes, 5 skid spots will end up on the tyre. In the diagram below, these are marked on the imaginary tyre 1 to 5.

That is why you get skid spots: The chain is, for the same crank position, in the same spot, so there are only as many possible positions for the rear wheel as there are teeth on the cog.

But now imagine you have a 10 tooth chainring, that means for each pedal revolution, 10 teeth of chain will be advanced. If the rear wheel started in position 1, then it would rotate once for the first 5 teeth of chain, and then once again for the next five, stopping back at position one. As you skid down the hill, each skid would be in the same place on the tyre! Even though there were 5 possible positions, the chain only advanced in whole lots of five (ten fits two fives in perfectly ;) , only one of the five possible positions is ever reached.

So that’s it! The reason the number of skid patches is not necessarily equal to the number of teeth on your cog is that, depending on the number of teeth on the chainring, some of the possible positions for the rear wheel are never reached. They are never reached because the number of teeth on the cog divides ‘neatly’ into the number of teeth on the chainring. Just how ‘neatly’ it divides up will give you an indication of the number of skid patches.

Practical Examples:

Before looking at how to determine the number of skid spots for a chosen chainring/cog combo, let’s look at some practical combinations and how ‘neatly’ they work out.

A fairly typical street gear could be 42:16, that’s 42 teeth on the chainring and 16 on the cog. One full revolution of the cranks advances the chain 42 teeth and there are 16 possible positions for the rear wheel. Number all 16 possible wheel positions 1 – 16, now what happens on that long descent skidding each pedal revolution? For simplicity let’s assume the wheel skids first in position 1. On the next skid, 42 teeth of chain will have been advanced. So that means the wheel will do two full revolutions and then a further 10 teeth worth of revolution counting around the cog (16 + 16 + 10 = 42), taking it to position 11. On the next skid, it will do two full revolutions back to position 11, then ten more teeth, stopping at position 5. On the next skid it will rotate twice to position 5, then ten teeth to position 15…

  • pos 15 + two rotations + ten teeth = pos 9
  • pos 9 + two rotations + ten teeth = pos 3
  • pos 3 + two rotations + ten teeth = pos 13
  • pos 13 + two rotations + ten teeth = pos 7
  • pos 7 + two rotations + ten teeth = pos 1

This sequence of positions repeats after each 8 steps:

1, 11, 5, 15, 9, 3, 13, 7, 1, 11, 5, 15, 9, 3, 13, 7, 1, …

This gear combination has 8 skid spots. What if a 17t cog was used instead? In this case each skid rotates the wheel twice and then 8 teeth (17 + 17 + 8 = 42). In this case the wheel position sequence goes:

1, 9, 17, 8, 16, 7, 15, 6, 14, 5, 13, 4, 12, 3, 11, 2, 10, 1, 9, 17, …

The sequence repeats after 17 steps – that’s 17 skid patches.

Interesting? Maybe. Tedious? Most definitely! About now I’d recommend flipping your bike and watching the sequence for yourself. Oh, and have a coffee, LSD, or ‘chai-tea’ while you’re at it ;)

Working It Out:

Turn your gear ratio (eg 48:20) into a fraction (eg 48/20), and (take it away Sheldon) …

Simplify the gear ratio to the smallest equivalent whole number ratio. The denominator of the resulting fraction is the number of skid patches you will have on your rear tire.

For example: 48:20, that’s the fraction 48/20, which simplifies to 12/5 – five skid patches. Or, if you use a fancy calculator, matlab, excel, 123 or etc, divide the number of teeth on the cog by the greatest common divisor of the teeth on the chainring and cog:

ss = R / gcd (F, R)

Where ss is the number of skid spots, F is the teeth on the chainring and R is the teeth on the cog.

Skidding With Both Legs

“So, if I skid with both legs, do I get twice as many skid spots?”

Short answer: maybe. In this case you are now advancing the cranks half turns when skidding. Assuming the long downhill short skids again, that means you advance the chain half as many links per skid than before. If the chainring has an even number of teeth, the number of skid spots can be worked out as above, just half the teeth on the chainring first.

For example, the 42:16 becomes 21:16. gcd(21, 16) is 1, so there are 16 skid spots, double the amount for one-legged skid. For the ratio 48:20, it becomes 24:20, gcd(24, 20) is 4 so there are still 5 spots when skidding two-legged.

If the chainring has an odd number of teeth, just double the number of spots worked out for one-legged skids.

Note: this does not agree with Sheldon’s method. See the skid patch theorem post for more.

Not Working It Out:

Ride your bike and clean your chain. Change your tyre when it gets too worn anywhere. That should do the trick. If you are worried, look it up in a table.

ndf 26/11/2006

T-Shirts Are Here!!!!!

Monday, June 19th, 2006

Shirt

Many thanks again to Makatron for all the legwork. He even delivered them!!

There are five sizes ranging from small girlie to large bloke. Stocks are limited and some mediums are already taken by those who missed out last time.

Sizing is as follows (measurements are taken from armpit to armpit):
Large: 54cm
Medium: 50cm
Youth Large: 45cm
Youth Medium: 43cm
Youth Small: 40cm

Of course, measurements are indicative only because you never know, I may have buggered it up.

To order, email me and ask nicely. Cost is $20 including postage, or $15 if you come and get it.

First email, first served.

-853

It’s Not All Beer and Skittles

Friday, May 5th, 2006

Some server trouble today means I’m a bit late with this, but here goes anyway…

Rhino has passed on the news that Nath was hit by a car on Wednesday night and is seriously injured. That’s the extent of the details I know. Regardless of who did what to who, one of us is in bad shape.

Obviously we’re all concerned and hope all goes well for Nath. I was due to meet Nath (for the first time) to lend him a bike and take him up to the weekly Melbourne ride tomorrow morning, but despite having only met Nath via email so far, I’m feeling very upset about this and I really hope he’s going to be ok.

Rhino,
I think I speak for most people here when I say if there’s anything that can be done for Nath here, say the word and it will be taken care of.

Nath,
We’re thinking of you mate.

If anyone has comments to make or news, please do so in this thread.

Thanks for keeping us updated Rhino.

Sadly…
-853

the mid week fix

Friday, April 14th, 2006

Due to popular demand as revealed at primz’s farewell alleycat and the following discussion in the forum there is another fixed ride starting up. The focus is on skills, as opposed to the Saturday rides where we actually go somewhere (granted, we don’t go quickly). Can’t skid, trackstand, do backwards circles, bunnyhop or ride platforms with volleys like Rhino? Then come along. And if you can do any of these things, come along and share your skills!

The location is behind Federation Square. Head down the path behind Federation Square and you should get to that gravel section (Birrarung Mar). Stay on the path and there should be a bridge on the right, with these yellow down-lights under the hand rails. Continue up the bridge, we’ve been riding on the landing where there is a lift. It’s a reasonable sized flat area and good place to practice.

roguedubb

tshirts!

Sunday, April 2nd, 2006

Tshirts have arrived!

Thanks to Nick for organising it, and special thanks to Makatron for going to all the effort of designing and screenprinting them for us all. We’ve got some medium and large sizes and they’re $25, including postage.

If you want one, send me an email or a PM. There’s only about 20 available so be quick. These will be collector’s items one day you know!

First in, best dressed!

-853

Fixin’ To Fixxit With a Fixxer

Sunday, March 5th, 2006

Finally it’s done. Two objectives achieved at once. I’ve converted an old eight speed Shimano 600 road hub to a fixed hub with a Surly Fixxer, and I’ve converted my road bike into a fixed.

So here’s a short HOWTO with some tips and tricks.

Step 1 – So What is Surly Fixxer?
The Fixxer is a device which replaces the cassette body on a Shimano freehub (except Silent Clutch hubs and pre-1997 Dura Ace) and allows the use of a track cog and lockring, making it a fixed gear hub. It should work on most Shimano-compatible hubs but that sometimes requires a bit of creative modification of the hub. It has been done successfully on some carbon Spinergy models.

The threaded part on the left of the picture is what threads into the hub in place of the cassette body. The cog and lockring threads are on the right of the pic.

Step 2 – What Do I Get For The Money?
The Fixxer comes supplied with a solid axle, a range of axle spacers, track nuts and a sealed cartridge bearing which is pre-installed in the Fixxer. You also get a sleeve but that drops into the cartridge bearing in the fixxer. It’s threaded because the axle gets threaded into the sleeve nut. You also get a printed instruction page.

Step 4 – What Do I Need?
You’ll need:

  • Cone Spanners for the cones and locknuts
  • 10mm Allen Key – A T-Handle is preferable so you can get plenty of leverage
  • Grease
  • New ball bearings if you’re going to replace those at the same time
  • An old towel or rag of some sort

Step 5 – Removing the Axle
OK so the first thing to do is remove the existing hollow axle from the hub. You should probably look at whatever instructions apply to your particular hub, but they’re mostly the same.

First up, put an old towel or something underneath the hub, because loose ball bearings will fall out. They’re messy and they roll away really quickly so the old towel will save you some hassle.

Undo the locknut from the drive side of the axle. The non-drive side can stay intact, but you might need to move the non-drive side cone and locknut depending on which spacing you want. Undo the cone (after removing spacers, if any, that are on the axle) and remove it. Clean everything and pay aprticular attention to cleaning the rubber seal properly. If it’s buggered, replace it.

Now, go and get that old towel you were too lazy to get in the first place so you won’t lose more bearings.

Step 6 – Removing the Cassette Body
On the drive side of the hub, stick the 10mm allen key into the hole where the axle used to be. Now turn the allen key anti-clockwise to loosen the cassette body. If it’s been there a while it might take quite a bit of oomph to loosen. Once you’ve cracked it, it should spin off the hub quite easily.

Now clean the hub while you’re there because it probably wont see daylight for ages now.

So now your hub should look something like this:

Now take the 10mm allen key and put it into the fixxer from the bearing side (that’s the blue bit in the picture). Grease the threads on the non-drive side of the fixxer. Thread the fixxer into the hub and turn the allen key clockwise to tighten. It should thread in easily. I did find that when you got to about 3mm left to tighten the threads can start bind and crossthread easily. Be careful at this point because if you force is you will probably destroy the fixxer.

Anyway, thread it all the way in and tighten to 310 to 440lbs. I don’t know wtf that is so I just jammed it on as tight as I could. So now you’re ready to install the solid axle, bearings, cone and locknut.

Step 7 – Installing the Solid Axle and Bearings
So here’s what the Fixxed hub should look like now:

Now thread the cone and locknut onto the solid axle. Just estimate how far you need to thread it on for the moment. You can make finer adjustments later.

Now that you’ve cleaned out the race cup in the hub and the old bearings (unless you’re replacing those), line the bearing race with grease. Put enough in to keep the ball bearings coated while they turn in the race. There should be nine ball bearings (in most cases, at least). Put the ball bearings in the race and they should all fit in snugly, but not tight. If you’re replacing the bearings, get them from Dan at Shifter Bikes if you’re in Melbourne because he’s a good guy and you should support good bike shops because there aren’t that many around.

Put the sleeve nut (that came with the fixxer) into the bearing side of the fixxer – it just slides in. Oh, you should grease it lightly first.

Now, with the non drive side of the hub facing up (it has to be because you had to drop the bearings into it) drop the axle into the hub and thread it into the sleeve nut.

Step 8 – Adjusting the Bearings
As you thread the the axle in the cone and locknut will be pulled into the bearing race in the hub and the cone will tighten the bearings against the race. Adjusting loose ball bearing hubs is a bit of an art. You want it to be tight enough that there’s no slop but maybe just enough play so that tightening the axle into the frame doesn’t overtighten and bind the bearings. Practice makes perfect. If you overtighten or undertighten it, just keep adjusting until it feels right. If in doubt, get a good bike shopto do it for you.

Step 9 – Now it Gets a Bit Interesting
The instructions have diagrams showing which combinations of spacers to use for whichever spacing you want. The fixxer can be spaced from 120mm to 135mm. BUT…the instructions turned out to be wrong in my case. But it could be that the wheel wasn’t dished properly, because the spacers I used to get the ~41mm chainline and centred rim was nothing like the instructions. Anyway, after a lot of buggering about with a tape measure I finally got the spacing close enough, with the right chainline.

Step 10 – What Now? Nothing – It’s Done!
So hopefully now you’ve arsed about for half an hour getting the spacing right and it’s ready to put a cog on, stick it on a bike and ride it. I’m not going to explain howto install the cog and lockring and fit the wheel to the bike, because if you don’t know that you shouldn’t be taking hubs apart in the first place.

The Verdict
Now I have to admit that I’ve ridden this wheel a total of about 100 metres so I have no idea how it’s going to stand up in the long rn, but I see no reason why it would be any different to a track wheel, except that the road dishing possibly makes it a bit weaker.

Anyway, here’s a few good tips to be aware of:

  1. Use the right tools (and good quality ones wherever possible)
  2. Clean and grease all threads – ALL threads
  3. Take your time and you’ll make fewer mistakes
  4. Refer to the instructions often

The Fixxer cost me about $90 to buy and have shipped from the US. They’re very difficult to find in Aus. I think the fixxer is only worth the cost if you have a high quality freehub wheel to convert. Otherwise, I think you’d be better off building or buying a proper track wheel.

DISCLAIMER:
If you’re not comfortable doing this kind of maintenance, get somebody experienced to do it for you, or help you do it. None of this is difficult but it requires the correct tools and some patience. Even if you followed these instructions to the letter, don’t blame me if you get killed or you lose your job and our family disowns you and become a homeless alcoholic, because of the Surly Fixxer.

Before this effort, I’d never actually take a hub apart so if I can do it, most idiots should be able to.

The Finished Product
So here’s what I did with the newly fixxed wheel.

For those who are interested, this bike consists of:
A custom built Reynolds 853 road frame (made for Cecil Walker, by Paconi)
Columbus Muscle carbon fork
Campag Centaur bottom bracket, brake calipers & 172.5mm cranks
40T Campag chainring and a 14T Dura Ace cog, Dura Ace lockring
Look Carbopost carbon seatpost
Selle Italia SLR Carbon saddle
ITM Mantis Wing bars
Thomson Elite X4 stem (thanks Des!)
Shimano brake calipers

Good Luck!!
-853